I have been asked quite a bit lately about re-stringing pearls so I thought an article was in order to answer those frequently asked questions.

STRINGING 

There are various ways to string pearls.  I usually use the traditional method of hand-knotting on a double strand of strong silk thread (either white or black depending on pearl color).  Most sizes of pearls are knotted between each pearl so that the strand has a beautiful drape, the pearls do not rub together, and so that if it ever were to break you would only have a pearl or two fall off the strand.  Silk thread is gentle on the delicate pearl and will not "saw" into the nacre of the pearl with wear.   If pearls are small, they are generally knotted between sets instead of each pearl to keep them from looking too skimpy.  If other beads are used with pearls, such as jade or gold beads, they are also often knotted between sets. 

If the pearls are not too precious and are interspersed with gemstone or metal beads, I will often use a strong bead cord to knot them instead of silk.  This insures that the sharper edges of the gemstone or metal beads will not cut through the stringing material with wear.  I use a double strand of braided 10-20lb test bead cord that is waxed and very closely resembles silk.  This is the same type of bead cord that is now generally used for all but the most expensive pearls that you would see at fine jewelry stores.

Pearls strung on silk, and which are worn frequently, should be re-strung once every 1-3 years.  Silk is a natural material which will stretch and degrade over time.  Pearls strung on bead cord should only have to be re-strung if the the bead cord has been stretched by frequent wear over time and the pearls are no longer tight against the knots.  When I string, I "pre-stretch" the beadcord so this is unlikely to happen unless the beads are very heavy or if the wearer tends to pull on them during wear (I admit that I tend to pull on my pearls, but it's so hard to resist touching them).

CLASP ATTACHMENT 

The weakest point of any bracelet or necklace is the point where the clasp attaches to the strand.  Because of this, I spend extra time covering the stringing material with the tiniest coiled wire which is called gimp, bouillon or French wire.  This prevents the metal of the clasp from rubbing against the stringing material and makes the attachment much more durable.  This step is generally skipped by most pearl stringers resulting in a weakened attachment.  I also spend a great deal of time weaving the ends of the stringing material back through the holes of the last three pearls on each end so that it will never unravel or come undone.  Since most pearls are now strung on bead cord, most pearl stringers just tie the ends to the clasp and melt it on by holding the ends briefly under a cigarette lighter.  Sometimes they will glue it or knot the end and clamp it to the clasp with a crimp bead or bead tip.  All of these methods will work OK for a while if done correctly, but are not as secure over time as the classic methods that I use.

Because most stringing materials stretch over time, I knot everything just a little tight.  The weight of the strand and the heat and moisture from your body while wearing them will stretch the strand after a few uses. If they aren't strung slightly tight at first, the pearls will have room to slide between knots which does not look good and can cause wear.

TIME 

I'm often asked how long it takes me to string pearls.  If all goes smoothly, the approximate time it takes me to string a 16-18 inch strand of  6-7mm pearls on silk is about an hour.  Larger pearls take fewer knots and smaller pearls take more, therefore time will vary depending on the size of the pearls as well as the length of the strand.  Much of the time is taken up in attaching the clasp properly, therefore a bracelet takes nearly as much time as a necklace.  All too often, things don't go smoothly as weaving back through the very tiny holes in pearls that already have a double strand of stringing material in them can be nearly impossible.  If I can't weave the final ends back through I have to cut the pearls apart and start over.  Double and triple strand necklaces can take a very long time to string.

I've been to China and have watched girls string pearls at the speed of lightening and sometimes people expect that of me.  I just have to say they don't use the same methods.  They usually take the ends of the temporary strand and knot a single strand of bead cord to it and fish it through, then finger tie knots without stopping to tighten them, and use the cigarette lighter method to melt the cord to the clasp.  Often this works well, but sometimes it doesn't.  I've seen a lot of very badly strung pearls.  I've also seen a lot of nice pearls that have been strung without any knots.  Classic pearl stringing is an art that takes a lot of practice.  

LENGTHENING / SHORTENING 

Shortening offers the opportunity to either get rid of a few flawed pearls or to remove some to use to make drop earrings or a pendant.   I'm often asked to "just take a few pearls off the end instead of re-stringing."  Unfortunately, this can't be done with the traditional methods that I use.  The entire piece must be re-strung because the ends must be woven back through the last few pearls or beads.

Lengthening can be done if pearls were never knotted.  Adding knots adds some length--generally an inch or two on a necklace.  Strands can also be lengthened with an extender chain, by adding some smaller pearls near the clasp or by mixing in other types of beads.

PEARL CLEANING

Sometimes it is a good idea to clean your pearls right before re-stringing them. This is usually done while they are still on the old stringing material, but not always. You can usually tell if they need to be cleaned by looking at the stringing material and seeing if it looks dirty. There's really no magic or skill involved in cleaning the pearls except for careful handling and keeping them far away from the drain!  I use a gentle natural liquid soap (not a detergent) with no dyes or perfumes in it and a lot of clean, room temperature water in a bowl away from the sink which is lined with a clean soft cloth. I carefully clean them by hand without rubbing the pearls together. Then they are rinsed several times in bowls of clean water and patted dry with a soft cloth. The pearls are then carefully cut off the old stringing material, without scratching the pearls, and allowed to dry for a day or two in order to make sure all water evaporates out of the drill holes before re-stringing. I do offer pearl cleaning service, but this service will add a couple of days to the turn around time.

PRICES 

Professional pearl re-stringing service prices vary depending on size of pearls, length of strand(s), price of the clasp used and whether other types of beads will be added.  The standards I use for figuring up the costs are these:

16-18 inch strand of 6-8mm pearls knotted between each pearl using owner's existing clasp  $30

7-8 inch bracelet with 6-8mm pearls using owner's existing clasp  $20

Pearl cleaning  $10

Multi strand pieces are charged per strand.

Graduated strands can take a lot more time and extra materials to string and therefore may cost more. Different sized beads often have different sized holes and therefore, extra threads may need to be woven in to make the knots large enough to not pull through the bead holes.

SENDING ME YOUR JEWELRY

You must contact me to make arrangements for sending or bringing me your pearls to re-string. I do not accept pearls of high value to re-string through the mail, but I'll be happy to re-string lower value pearl strands or beaded jewelry. You will need to estimate the cost of your pearls for me so I know how much to charge you for sending them back to you via insured mail. Payment is required up front.

I will e-mail you a photo of your jewelry when I receive it as proof of receipt. I may e-mail you various photos during the process if necessary, and will send a final photo when your item is complete.

Sadly, not infrequently, someone will show me Grandma's treasured pearls only to have me point out that they are simulated pearls. If Grandma was a depression era bride it's particularly likely. Pearls were not cultured until the early 1900s and not customarily given as gifts to sweet sixteens and brides until the 1930s. You can check your pearls, to a certain extent, by looking at the drill holes of the pearls in good light--can you see any chips or peeling paint?  You can also give it the "tooth test" by rubbing the pearls across your teeth (doesn't work with dentures). Real pearls will feel slightly gritty and fake pearls often feel smooth (although there is a high-end immitation pearl brand called "Majorica" that also feels gritty). Also check to see if there are any variations in color, luster, size and shape or any blemishes. Real pearls are natural products. If they are perfectly uniform they are either fake or very, very expensive.  I'm not a pearl appraiser and I'm perfectly happy to re-string simulated pearls for you, but some people decide it's not worth it if they are not real. Other people decide it's a good opportunity to do something more modern with the simulated pearls and have me add other beads to make a new custom design.

OTHER JEWELRY REPAIR 

I'm not a jeweler so I can't fix some things, set stones or drill pearls, but I can do a lot of different types of repairs, changes or sizing adjustments on beaded jewelry.  One common request I get is to change a hard to work clasp out for a magnetic one.

"This restringing service is a GREAT deal! My necklace was complicated to restring, and Sue had the skill to know exactly what to do to make the necklace perfect! I feel I got first-rate service for a great price! She also made me a beautiful pair of earrings out of some of the beads. I'm very happy with this purchase!"    Tracy (Ohio)

For information on caring for your pearls visit my  Pearl Care Guide

 
© 2008 Susan E Runyon

Sue Runyon